I first came to Barcelona in the early 1990s, and fell in love with it within minutes of arriving. To me, it was – and remains - the perfect city, one that is large enough to have different areas – each with its own distinct characteristics – that make it feel like a city, and yet small enough to get around quite easily. Moreover, it has that one thing that every islander – especially one that comes from a small island like Malta – wants within easy reach: the sea. Little did I know then that more than a decade later, I would be making the city my home.

This is by no means an extensive guide to Barcelona – there are areas, such as the grid-like Eixample north of Placa Catalunya for example, that I don’t even mention. It’s more of a personal recommendation, suggesting places that have made my experience of this city so much better, and that hopefully – should you visit any of them – will show you that there is a lot more to this city than La Rambla, Gaudi…and Zara.

Mundial

P/ Sant Agustí Vell,

933 199 056 (booking recommended)

Metro: Arc de Triomf (L1)

I was first taken to the Mundial by a Maltese friend of mine who lives here. “You’ll love it,” he said. I did, and now make it a point to take any friends who are visiting – or at least recommend it. The place could easily be a village bar in Malta brought forward to the 21st century, and attracts a varied crowd. The tapas are by far the best I have tasted since I’ve been here. Try the aubergine chips with goat’s cheese and honey, and be spoilt for choice when presented by a tray carrying the most mouthwatering desserts. I always go for the Mojito mousse, but tend to dip my spoon into everyone else’s - none of which have ever disappointed.

Salero

C/ Rec 60

933 198 022 (booking recommended)

Metro: Arc de Triomf (L1), Jaume I (L4)

Salero was one of the first restaurants to kick off the regeneration of El Borne, and has now become a bit of a classic. It is my favourite restaurant in Barcelona for several reasons. First, the place itself: a huge white space with mismatching tables and white chairs. Second: the atmosphere – it’s cool enough to make going there a special night out, without it being stuffy or intimidating. The staff are nice and friendly and go out of their way to explain the menu, which often needs explaining. And then, of course, the food, which in the ten or so years I’ve been going there has always been excellent. For me, no visit to Salero is complete without a dish of vegetable tempura.

Merce Vins

C/ Amargós,

933 026 056

Metro: Urquinaona (L1, L4)

Located about 5 minutes away from where I live, this cosy Catalan restaurant, hidden way in a narrow alley off the Carrer Comtal, is where I end up having lunch whenever I don’t feel like cooking. At €,10.50 the three-course lunch set menu is one of the best on offer, with a selection of Catalan classics, as well as some of the best salads I’ve ever eaten. It gets very busy at Spanish lunchtime (around 2.30pm) so if you get there before that, getting a table shouldn’t be a problem.

Palau de la Musica

C/ Sant Pere Més Alt,

Reception entrance: C/ Palau de la Música, 4-6

Metro: Urquianona (L1, L4)

Often neglected by visitors who get caught up in the Gaudi trail, this wonderful gem of Catalan modernismo, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner in the first decade of the twentieth century is so fantastically barking mad, it almost makes Gaudi look like John Pawson. The interior is just as special as the outside, so it would be worth taking a tour of the stained glass music hall, originally built to celebrate Catalan music, which now plays host to world class musicians of all sorts. In fact, Music lovers should check out the program and try and catch a concert. It really is a wonderful experience.

Iglesia de Santa Ana

C/ Santa Ana,

Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3)

Readers of Carlos Ruiz Zafon’s The Shadow of the Wind should be familiar with the Calle de Santa Ana, where this oasis of calm away from the chaos of the Ramblas can be found. The original church and monastery date back to the 11th century, when they actually stood outside the city’s walls. I love to sit in the courtyard of the cloisters at the back of the church, especially in the summer months, when the shade offers a welcome respite from the scorching heat. In the evenings, the church serves as a backdrop for early classical music and Spanish guitar concerts.

Santa Caterina Market

Av. Francesc Cambo 16

Metro: Jaume I (L4) Although – for obvious reasons - tourists tend to naturally gravitate towards the Boqueria market on the Ramblas, the newly refurbished Santa Caterina market, situated close to the city’s cathedral, is where many locals – myself included – tend to do their food shopping. There are stalls specialising in meat, poultry, fish, fruit and veg. and bread, as well as a restaurant and tapas bar.

Marsella Bar

C/ Sant Pau 65 08001,

934 427 263

Metro: Liceu (L3)

Not for the faint hearted, the Marsella bar is located in the old barrio Xino deep in the heart of the Raval, on a street populated by pimps, prostitutes and other dodgy characters. Step inside and you enter another dimension, where nothing seems to have changed since the early 20th century when the likes of Miro, Picasso and Hemingway were regulars. The Marsella is mostly known for serving absinthe, which makes it a good place to watch people get totally plastered having imbibed too much ‘green fairy, as you do the same yourself, obviously.

Cereria Subirà‎

C/ de la Llibreteria 7,

Metro: Jaume I (L4)

This specialist candle shop dates back to the 18th century, and sells every type of candle you can imagine, from basic tea ones to ecclesiastical and modern designs from the Barcelona-based illustrator and designer Jordi Labanda. But it’s the interior that makes it my favourite shop in the city, with painted wooden cabinets, and a staircase flanked by the most fantastic brass lampposts in the city.

Parc de Poble Nou

Av Diagonal

Metro: Glories (L1)

The district of Poble Nou – located at the seaside end of Diagonal - is the latest in the city to be going through a regeneration project, and this park– designed by Jean Nouvel (whose phallic Torre Agbar already dominates the area’s skyline) is the jewel in its crown. Nouvel is at his most playful, designing a public space in which nature takes centre stage, with the plants and the natural light creating an ever-changing scenario of light and shade.

Mercat Del Encants

Plaça de les Glories Catalanes,

Metro: Glories (L1)

Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat from 08:30

If rummaging through piles of all sorts of things (and I mean ALL sorts of things) is your idea of fun (as it is mine) then a visit to the Encants flea market is a definite must. So far, every one of my visits has been fruitful, and there is rarely a Friday when I am not there, haggling with stall owners trying to get the best possible price for whatever it is that has caught my fancy (always aim for half the asking price). The best stalls are the central ones, although there are some shops in the surrounding area that are also worth checking out. One word of warning: watch your belongings carefully. The market is as popular with pickpockets as it is with bargain hunters.

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WHERE TO STAY:

There are literally thousands of places to stay in Barcelona, ranging from cheap hostels to ones offering luxury accomodation such as the Gran Hotel la Florida www.hotellaflorida.com up in Tibidabo,

The Arts (www.hotelartsbarcelona.com or the very controversial -W www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=3183

On a more accessible level, the three-star Abba Rambla Hotel www.abbaramblahotel.com offers good value for money, and is located in the heart of the Raval district, which also houses the new, four-star Barcelo Raval Hotel www.barceloraval.com

In the Gothic quarter,  the Hotel Neri www.hotelneri.com is a charming 18th century palace conversion overlooking the historic San Felipe Neri Square, whilst in El Borne, the Hotel Banys Orientals www.hotelbanysorientals.com is one of the most recommended.