Many years ago when I used to film travelogues for the national television (just in case you were thinking of doing it, don’t – you end up subsidising what turns out to be an expensive hobby, and when the excitement levels out, you realise you could be doing the whole thing without a camera chasing you at all times) we chanced upon Dubai as a destination.

We were flying with Emirates to Malaysia and Singapore so it made sense to drop by and check what all the fuss was about – at the time Dubai was the hot new destination. So, being sensible, we did.

The first thing that hits you, literally, is the dense, throat-clamming heat. Actually, the first thing, since you’re still in the airport (ever expanding and now becoming a victim of its own success) is the cold. The UAE has this constant duel with the weather – if it’s hot outside then they will make it freezing inside.

So, once out of the airport, you can imagine how long that ‘Ah… real temperature’ feeling lasts. I would calculate it at 2.7 seconds at which point you start to sweat profusely and shed every bit of clothing that is culturally acceptable in the United Arab Emirates.

This is why, as much as you can, everything you do in Dubai has to take place inside. There are no mad dogs running around so it’s mostly English men and women that will be dotting the beaches. If you want to swim and sunbathe, you are best doing this early in the morning or late in the afternoon. At all other times, ensure that you paste the Factor 50 on or book yourself into a hotel with a chilled pool.

Talking of chilled pools, the coolest hotel at the moment is the Armani Hotel, which has 160 understated rooms and suites – for Dubai, that’s boutique. The Dubai Suite, of which there is only one, and which, as you can imagine, is the most expensive in the building, was designed by Giorgio Armani himself.

I have not been personally but Mark Zammit, who runs his own company, has. He describes it as, “Style at its best”. The rooms and electronics are all ‘intelligent’ (meaning, you get a touchpad to do practically everything and should you wish, never get out of bed), while everything carries the Armani brand, from the toiletries to the desk and phone. You almost expect Giorgio himself to turn up with your in-room breakfast dressed in his trademark black t-shirt.

The Armani Hotel is nestled in the tallest tower in the world at Burj Khalifa, its pool suspended above the spectacular views. This is, in fact, what Dubai is about – its stunning architecture. Back when I visited the first time it was about copying and pasting iconic buildings from all over the world. Today, the Emiratis have carved out their own style. Their idea was always to brand the Burj Al Arab into their own Tour Eiffel and they’ve managed.

Having a mall

If you are going to stay mostly inside then you need something to do and Dubai comes up trumps. Personally I find it a little odd (not to mention carbon footprint guilty) to go skiing, which you can do at the Mall of the Emirates. I have no quibble with going shopping though and unleashing my plastic at Harvey Nichols, the first one to open out of London many years ago. It is all, conveniently, over a few floors and the space allocated to each concession is much larger than that in London, which is why you may, erm, come back with more Louboutins and Jimmy Choos than you thought was humanly possible. Or is that just me?

For those who love a bargain, head to Karama. I avoid, at all costs, the shops selling copies. I mean, what exactly is the point of a fake Louis Vuitton? Even if you are wearing a real one, unless the rest of your clothing and demeanour screams ‘rich’ and ‘stylish’ everybody will think you’re carrying a fake anyway.

Head to the back of the building where immigrant Indians, Pakistanis and Kashmiris have set up tiny stores selling beautifully beaded and soft pashminas and slippers.

And never, ever, buy electronics from the airport duty free unless you’re absolutely desperate for a charger. The service is slapdash, especially at peak hours, which is when the flight to Malta arrives and departs, and the prices sometimes higher than those in Europe. If you want electronics, go downtown where you can bargain.

Gold on a plate

Dubai is very much about eating out. I have quite a few reviews on planetmona.com but my favourite one still remains Indego, one of Vineet Bhatia’s first forays out of London. The ambience is chic, the service is amazing and the food is inventive and very modern Indian from all parts of the sub-continent.

In true Dubai style they have a gold-leaf dessert. Go for it. It is not cheap, but no good restaurant is, and there are many of them. If you’re a little broke, head for the Pakistani immigrant areas, but beware – eating with hands is normal, so brush up on the modus operandi before you sit down at one of the rickety tables. Standards are mostly always high.

Holiday notes

The two things that everybody will tell you about Dubai, especially all those expats who live there (the percentage of Emiratis hovers at around 10 out of the entire population) are that you need to be a little careful with your clothing and your behavior in public areas. No obvious public displays of affection as they can land you in jail and that’s no joke.

The second is the traffic – it is horrendous. If you are planning a few days in the city before or after you fly off to Mauritius or other picture-perfect destinations where you cannot shop, plan well. Otherwise you may find yourself spending half your days in taxi air-conditioning with the sun beating through the windows.

One last pointer – if you have the money, buy a first class ticket on Emirates. The cabins are lovely but the highlight is the First Class Lounge at Dubai International airport. You can also get yourself a massage or a manicure while you are there – it’s ‘free’.

The first time I went to Dubai, back in 1999, I was not too impressed with this city. On my second, third, fourth and fifth visits (at some point I lost count) I started to understand it and make the best of it. The Maltese television viewers though, adored it then and still love it now. Pull these two pages out of this magazine and the next time you’re in Dubai, keep your cool in all senses and follow my trail.

This article was originally published in Money Magazine

Mona Farrugia edits and writes for food, travel and review website www.planetmona.com.

Image 1 with kind permission from http://www.propertyportal.ae/image/dubai-jumeirah-lake-towers.jpg.

Images 2 and 3 by Mona Farrugia: Karama market

Fly Emirates,because it's a great airline and because it's too much of a hassle to do it in any other way!